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Ex-Pub & Kitchen chef Eli Collins is the latest star, and he has given the menu a strong French accent, channeling his DBGB years in New York for masterful charcuterie and inspired family-style sharing feasts (spring lamb five ways; the ultimate Alsatian choucroute) to pair with beautiful seasonal small plates and the outstanding service that has been a fixture there since the High Street/Fork group took over three years ago. Chef Chris D’Ambro and fiancee Marina de Oliveira created one of the year’s most ambitious and unusual new dining destinations: an intimate 16-seater that shares a kitchen with Southwark, their Queen Village restaurant and bar around the corner.The level of attention to handcraft — from the mixed wood and concrete decor to the myriad hors d’oeuvres, wine pairings, and outgoing service — is admirable.The hipster noodle fusion works of chef Ben Puchowitz and partner Shawn Darragh have stepped up to the next level with their latest creation, an energetic Fishtown hybrid of their original Cheu Noodles and Bing Bing Dim Sum, set in a 19th-century carriage house reimagined as a moody night market wrapped in graffiti murals.The decor’s intense artistic energy is met by the culinary imaginations of Puchowitz and chef Justin Bacharach, who’ve refined Cheu’s nontraditional riffs on Asian-inspired street foods with wit, finesse, and a distinctive Jewish touch, like the matzo ball brisket ramen and must-order Bubbie Chow’s sliced beef sharing platter.Chef Dominic and Lindsay Piperno’s stylish wood-fired American BYOB is blazing away at next-level sophistication for Collingswood, with a moody corner space built from scratch and a modern menu that tastes like a transplanted Center City kitchen.

Going BYOB, improving food value, and adding the spontaneity of weekly themed tasting menus has also transformed Mica from a special-occasion destination into a neighborhood-centric haunt.A few standbys gained a bell over previous rankings, and some newcomers landed among my favorites regardless of geography, including my restaurant of the year: Hearthside in Collingswood, from two young veterans of Vernick.This Year in Bells is a chance to revisit the highlights of all the restaurants reviewed on Sundays and those that had a rating change in the Ultimate Dining guide.It was a banner year for rising talents Jesse Ito (Royal Izakaya), Michael Vincent Ferreri (Res Ipsa), Eli Collins (, Yianni Arhontoulis (Mica), and Phil Manganaro, whose Park Place Cafe was a gastronomic BYOB surprise in Merchantville.But 2017, more than ever, was not entirely about new Center City restaurants.

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